This sawmill was utilized to cut the logs into
6x6 and 8x8 timbers for the timber frame
inside the home.  This sawmill had a 42"
chainsaw blade and it was designed to sit
right on top of the log.  By making the jig so
the saw could travel independent of the log,
I was able to have a greater control over
dimension, accuracy and saved a lot of time
and efforts by not having to remove the 200
lb saw after every cut.  Even with the jig,
the process was very slow as the chain saws
are not really designed to cut with the grain
and sharpening a 86" saw  is tedious and
time consuming.
After all the vertical and horizontal
timbers were cut, the lumber for the knee
braces were sawn.  Next came the cutting
of the notches for the knee braces and the
tongue and grooves for the second floor
and top plates.  Here I had made a
template for my knee brace notches and
used my drill bit to cut holes 2½ inches
Using my homemade mallet and
2" chisel, the cavity was removed
and the edges were cleaned out
along the pencil marks.  It is best
to knock out the waste using the
flat part of the chisel up.  This
will prevent the chisel from
digging into the wood fibers and
removing more of the wood than
you need.  At the left end of the
picture you can see the tongue
and grooved notch that receives
one of the floor joists.
Here is the final result; a clean
notch ready for a knee brace.
The template should fit snug
inside the notch.  If you have
too big of a discrepancy, then
mark that notch with a red ink
so you can make the proper
adjustments on the knee brace.