Here I am hammering in the beam
that will accommodate for the
kitchen rafters.  
As you can see in the picture, a piece
of 2x4 oak tied to the frame was
holding this massive 5"X7"X14'
timber.  A hoist was used to lift the
timber to a level position before
driving in into its notch. All the floor
joints were shoulder notched meaning
there was a 1" shoulder on the vertical
beams that the floor beam rested on
when the tongue was pushed all the
way in the support beam.  Here, I
didn't use a shoulder notch because
the other side of this beam rests on a
I used 1" maple dowels to tie the
tongue and grooves together.  It is
best to drill the hole for the dowel
into the post first. If you can't eye
the hole fairly straight, you may
want to use a level on both side of
your drill or use a jig to ensure a
straight hole.  Once the hole is
drilled, drive a finishing nail in the
middle of a 3/4" dowel and snip the
head of it at an angle.  Used this
dowel to mark where the hole on
the tongue should be drilled.  Drill
the tongue hole 1/8" back from the
mark to create a tight fit.  I used
wood sealer on the dowel
immediately before driving them
in.  It served as a lubricant to make
the drive easier.
Here I used a tripod made wih oak
saplings to hoist some of the top plates
onto the second floor.